http://www.jstor.org/stable/pdfplus/10.1525/gfc.2002.2.1.80.pdf?acceptTC=true
Pho - the Vietnamese Addiction - article from Gastronomica, so from the same source as other articles we've read in class.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Pho-Scene-in-the-United-States---Part-1&id=2223803
Series based off the scene in Pho in United States - relevant to topic of SE
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
Monday, April 8, 2013
Unit 1 - P4
P4: Read Cate and
O’Donnell. What roles
does food play in the communities that they studied?
Compare how Cate and
O’Donnell relate food to communities. What part of their
studies did you find
most interesting and why?
O'Donnell first talks about the role food
plays in the Chinese community based on politics. Some examples of that are how
Mao took special attention to the production and distribution of rice in the
Chinese socialist economy. Deng Xiaoping, Mao's sucessor, equated food and
egalitarian distribution of it to the signs of good government. Central to the
article is Wang Jin's parallelism of beef eaters representing socialists and
seafood eaters (the sneaky ones) as the rising capitalists. For Old
Shenzheners, food's role was to rekindle nostalgic spirit of the older
generation and reaffirm their identity. Food was linked to rustication was when
they worked in brigades in Mao's era and where food distribution was based off
whether your residence was rural or urban. Thus, food for the Old Shenzheners is
a reminder of the poor work conditions and malnourishment that one suffered for
the sake of their country. When the new migrants came over to Shenzhen to
develop the New Shenzhen era, they brought over their hometown foods and
different preparation styles whose role served to displace the old Shezheners
tradition. This is why Old Shenzheners feel nostalgic and reaffirm their
identities through food in the midst of a growingcosmopolitan society. For the
people who did not live in the times that defined the Old Shenzheners, they
were able to experience what it would be like through the old fsahioned recipes
in order to have greater appreciation for their roots.
In "Breaking Bread with a Spread"
by Sandra Cate, the role food played in the prison community was to bring more
excitement to the monotony in jail and their bland dishes. For the inmates,
spread is something that is enjoyable for them and something that unites them
together as it takes teamwork to gather the ingredients to make or invent a
great-tasting spread. Thus, food spread gives the inmates a reason to engage in
social activity despite the extenuating circumstances of being in jail. Another
interesting aspect of spread is that it is a status marker. That is, those who
are able to afford spread ingredients are most likely being taken care of by
someone or "richer" relative to other inmates. Conversely, the food
given off by the institution lacks the identity that spread provides because it
is so general, colorlless, and bland to fit the needs of everyone.
Both communities contain different groups
of people. In O'Donnell's article, the "factions" are the Old
Shenzhen and the New Shenzhener + migrants. In Cate's article, the factions can
be determined by race or by status markers. The authors similarly talk about
how food has affect on outsiders who do not understand the community. Zhang
Tsao did not understand why her mother liked corn bread and the role it played
in reminding of her of rustication just like the daughters of a released inmate
did not understand why they were being served spread for dinner. Both Cate and
O'Donnell discuss the role that food plays on a diverse community but in
different ways. O'Donnell focuses on the division that food creates by the
mentioning of Wang Jin's parable of the sneaky fish eaters and the dumb meat
eaters whereas Cate focuses on how prison spread has brought an identity to the
people in jail. The food for the Old Shenzheners was a symbol of reaffirming
their identity and their history under Mao rule which isolated them from the
growing diversity following the change in the economy and the migrants that
started to infiltrate their community. For Cate, prison spread was a way of
making the inmates more personalized and a source of innovation and stimulation
in the drab environment.
The part of the study that I found the most
interesting was how the role of food transitioned for the prison inmates. Even
once they were released from jail, some continued to make spread at home and
even took advantage of the resources available to them to make spread that they
could not make with the constraint in jail. Food's role had become so ingrained
in their community that it had become a part of the community member's identity
so that the practice was still continued even when they had become separated
from the community later on. It supports the idea that through food, an
individual alone is capable of representing their community even if they are
not physically together. This ties in to how O'Donnell concludes her article of
how New Shenzheners were able to re-experience a part of their family history
through food to better understand a community that they are a part of but
really know little about. Food's role in both communities was the transferrance
of their culture.