P9: Read the essays by Pollan (“Unhappy Meals”) and Dupuis.
Write a post in which you connect the essays to one another and to a
contemporary food issue. In other words, read the essays alongside one another
and use that reading to inform your commentary on an aspect of our food
cultures.
Both
authors are concerned with the question of "what to eat?" It's one
thing to identify that some dietary habits and foods are bad for you, but it
never provides a better alternative: what to
eat? Pollan talks about how many people gain from the "Conspiracy of
Confusion" such as journalists, "institutional imperatives of the
food industry, and nutritional science" which creates the "edible
foodlike" substitutes in the markets. Dupuis relates this to how Mormons were
manipulated and were told that people received callings from angels of the
"healthy living." Pollan details how food has almost lost its
meaning, being replaced by "nutrients" and other terms like
"macronutrients, cholesterol, fiber, and saturated fat" to complicate
things even further.
A contemporary issue that this relates to is
how lobbies really influence government's decisions at the sacrifice of public
awareness of health issues. Pollan explains it perfectly with the Senator
McGovern example where his recommendations were rewrriten from "reduce
consumption of meat" to "choose meats, poultry and fish that will
reduce saturated-fat intake." The pull that these lobbies have forces
institutions that are responsible for public awareness of these issues to compromise
to save face. Pollan refers to the issue of the Western Diet as the
"elephant in the room." Pollan talks about how food has become
simplified and "fast in another way - predigested." Because of that,
we have distorted the ratios that we eat essential fat like omega-3. Our food
culture now revolves around fast food, and another aspect of this is proportion
distortion. Not only are we eating unhealthily, we are also eating in excess of
what we need. Even the essentials for our body are being consumed in the body
more than we need, which becomes bad for us. The adage of "everything in
moderation" really applies to this problem.
In
both Pollan and Dupuis' article, they talk
a lot about "invisible messengers" which people used as crutches in
their arguments in food in gastropolitics. There were fear campaigns towards
the germs in food, and there was a separation in working classes because of
food and the "right to calories." Since there was no observable
proof, namedropping tactics like these were used to confuse the public. Pollan
explores how "nutritionism" is in itself fallacious because eating
better does not mean that it is good for us as individuals. He brings up the
example of the Atkins craze to represent that "framing dietary advice in
terms of good and bad nutrients" is avoiding the real issue which is to
"eat less of any particular food." The scientists in Dupuis' article
even try to use nutritionism to show which is the superior diet: the Chinese or
the Western? This is pointless to discuss because as Pollan says in his
article, there is a "French paradox - the fact that a population that eats
all sorts of unhealthful nutrients is in many ways healthier than we Americans
are." Both argue that the treatment of food politics has become entirely reductive.
Pollan believes that as scientists continue to break down the complexities of
food into "nutrients," they lose sight of the bigger picture. Dupuis
thinks the same of how food is a scapegoat for more pressing social problems
and how we should not "solve through our stomachs" any longer.
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